Languedoc-Roussillon
The Languedoc Roussillon, an increasingly popular region of France with both French and foreign visitors, is located on the Mediterranean coast, extending from the Spanish border round to just east of Montpellier. The region extends inland up to north of the Cévennes and west beyond Carcassonne.
The region is made up of 5 'départements', the equivalent administratively and geographically of a county or state. These are the Pyrénées Orientales (66), the Aude (11), the Hérault (34), the Gard (30) and the Lozère (48). All French departments are numbered alphabetically, starting with Ain (01), and these are the numbers on car registration plates, in case you've ever wondered!The Languedoc is a region of varying traditions. It takes its name from the language that was once spoken here, Occitan, in which the word for 'yes' was 'oc'. Hence the name Languedoc means the place where the language of 'oc' was spoken. This is true of part of the region but the south of the Languedoc is also French Catalonia, where Catalan is the traditional language. There is currently a revival of Occitan and a movement to preserve Catalan, with many schools and cultural programmes now offering these two languages alongside French.
The region is also enormously varied in terms or culture, landscape and climate, which makes it all the more interesting as it has so much to offer, whilst still being unmistakably French. The dry and warm climate makes the area the largest wine-producing region of France and a popular year-round destination for tourists. The never-ending vineyards in summer and many evergreen trees make the region exceptionally green year round, setting off the blues of the sky and the sea in a dazzling contrast. Although the Languedoc has gained in popularity over the last twenty to thirty years it is still relatively undeveloped and unspoilt. It has some way to go to attain the sophistication of the Côte d'Azur but many would argue that this is the charm of the Languedoc and it would be a shame to change it. Evolution is inevitable, especially with the number of non-French now coming to the area and the increased investment that comes with them, but there are so many strong traditions within the region that it is hard to believe it will ever lose its identity.The Départements
Pyrenees Orientales
Aude
Gard
Hérault
Lozére
Pyrénées Orientales, 'Le Pays Catalan'
Inhabitants: 400 000
Capital town or Préfecture: Perpignan
Sous-Préfecture: Céret
Main towns: Collioure, Prades, Le Boulou, Thuir, Elne, Rivesaltes, St Laurent de la Salanque
Coastal resorts: Banyuls, Collioure, Argelès, St Cyprien, Canet, Ste Marie, Torreilles, Le Barcarès
Airports: Perpignan- Rivesaltes
Added attractions: Skiing resorts of Font Romeu, Les Angles, Pyrénées 2000, Puyvalador
Mediterranean coast
Geography
The Pyrénées Orientales (PO) department is relatively small and yet has the huge attraction of having mountains to the west, and the Mediterranean coast to the east. Proximity to Spain is also generally considered to be an advantage for cultural exchange, diversity of food and drink and, very importantly, cheaper shopping and fuel!
There are three valleys in PO: the northernmost is known as the Fenouillèdes, the middle one is the Têt Valley, and the southernmost is the Tech Valley, both named after the rivers that run through them. The main towns and amenities tend to be located off the main roads that run through these valleys. The terrain in between is very beautiful but often not easily accessible, being the foothills of the Pyrénées. The villages in these areas tend to be small and relatively quiet with few amenities.
Perpignan is a lively and cosmopolitan city which enjoys both French and Catalan influences. It is without doubt one of the best cities for shopping, partying, eating and drinking this side of Montpellier.
Céret is a pleasant town with shady avenues, interesting shops and traditional café bars. It is a must on art-lovers' itineraries.
Collioure, a picturesque fishing port, also has a strong art tradition. It marks the change in the Roussillon coastline from the long sandy beaches of St Cyprien and Argelès, to the rockier coastline with its pretty coves, which continues down to the Bay of Roses. A major tourist attraction, Collioure is busy all year round, but especially in the summer when parking can be almost impossible!
Villefranche de Conflent is a fortified village in the Têt valley. A popular place for visitors, the village is ideal for a stroll as there are lots of craft shops selling traditional wares. Fort Liberia, built in 1681 as a garrison to defend the village's vulnerable position from French and Spanish invaders, is on the hill above Villefranche. Watch out for the 734 steps up there!
Canet Plage is a cosmopolitan coastal resort, especially popular in the summer when the party people leave Perpignan city centre and head for the beaches to eat, drink and make merry in the many bars, restaurants and clubs.Tautavel is a prehistoric site made famous by the discovery in 1011 in the Caune de l'Arago, a deep cave, of the remains of a human being, the oldest ever found in Europe at over 450 000 years old. The valley of the Verdouble, shared with Vingrau, is a site of major archaeological interest as remains have been found from settlements throughout the Palaeolithic and Neolithic periods.
Prades is a lively market town that serves the villages further into the Conflent. Generally acknowledged as the last stop before the mountains, it is also the town which marks the change in climate from mountains to plain.The Pyrénées Orientales boasts five villages that have been awarded the 'Plus Beaux Villages de France' accreditation: Castelnou (near Thuir), Eus, Evol, Mosset and Villefranche de Conflent.
HistoryPerpignan was almost certainly founded on the site of a roman villa that bore the name of Castell-Rosello, which later became Château Roussillon. This site still exists just 1km outside Perpignan. The first known mention of Perpignan by name dates back to 927 when it was known as Villa Perpinianum.
For a brief period during the 13th and 14th centuries Perpignan was the mainland capital of the Kingdom of Majorca, which at the time included the Balearics, Roussillon, Cerdagne and Montpellier. The Palace of the Kings of Majorca (Jacques I, Sanche and Jacques II) can still be seen today.Not surprisingly, because of its inclusion in Catalonia from the 9th century and its proximity to Spain, the PO's history includes many Franco-Spanish conflicts and battles for independence, hence the many fortified buildings that are still found today. The Fortress at Salses le Chateau is still heralded as one of the most innovative fortress designs. The fact that it is still intact today demonstrates its indestructibility.
There are many historic buildings to visit in Perpignan including Campo-Santo (built as a cemetery and now used as a cultural centre), the Castillet, the walled old town and many religious buildings including the Cathedral of St Jean.One of Perpignan's main industries has always been textiles; in 1330 there were 400 textile manufacturers in the Quartier de la Loge. Today, Catalonia is still known for its fabrics, the most famous being Les Tissus du Soleil, based in St Laurent de Cerdans. Their distinctive stripy fabrics have become a trademark of the PO.
The Canigou (the highest peak of the western Pyrénées) was mined for iron from prehistoric times, but mostly from the 14th century, declining at the end of the 18th century. This explains the names of many villages such as 'La Farga': 'forge' in Catalan.
Collioure was an important port on the trade route from mainland Europe to the Balearics and Africa.
For more history see Histoire du Roussillon It's a fascinating site, but only in French for the moment!Culture
The cultural traditions of the PO are many and have their roots mostly in Catalan traditions. Music is an important feature of any major event and there are many 'Bandas' (Catalonia's answer to brass bands) to be seen at any festival or fête. Logically, where there is music there is dancing, which brings us to another major PO tradition, 'Sardane'. This is a group dance; the more people the better, dancing in a circle, or if there are a lot of them, up to three circles inside each other. It looks easy but the steps are carefully counted so it requires a certain amount of concentration! Again, the Sardane is usually to be seen at fêtes and gatherings.
Any art historian will know about the importance of the PO in art history, particularly at the turn of the last century, when Collioure and Céret were major centres for the Fauvists, most notably André Dérain and Henri Matisse, who spent considerable time there painting scenes of boats and landscapes. They were attracted by the exceptional clarity of the light, which perfectly suited their exuberant painting style. Collioure and Céret have both been adopted ever since by artists of all disciplines, and there are numerous studios and galleries to be found in amongst the shops, bars and restaurants.
Climate
The climate in PO obviously varies enormously between the Mediterranean and the mountains. There is, on average, a difference year-round of 10°C between the resorts of Font-Romeu and Les Angles, and the coast. Like the rest of the Languedoc, PO enjoys mild winters and hot summers, with few rainy days. The Tramontane blows from the North West; it is a cold wind in winter and a cooling breeze in the summer, but it always brings blue skies and sunshine, whatever the temperature. It is particularly strong on the coast. On average there are over 300 days of sunshine a year, and once again PO can boast, this time of the sunniest place in France (reputedly!): Font Romeu.
Food & Drink
Most of the traditional foods in PO come from Catalan recipes and are largely dictated by the local produce. The Catalans are great meat eaters: wild boar, duck, steak and even snails cooked on an open fire over vines are a staple in many of the traditional restaurants. Many types of charcuterie (dried sausage and cured meats) are produced in the area; Serrano ham is very like Parma ham, although often served in thicker slices, and is delicious eaten with melon or figs.The PO is a massive producer of fruits and vegetables, particularly cherries and peaches, whose pink blossom in full glory in March and April features on many postcards of the area.
Fish and seafood are popular, particularly red snapper and sea bass, which are caught in the Mediterranean, and oysters and mussels which are farmed in the marine lakes.There are many small-scale producers of fresh farm cheeses, particularly those made from goats' and sheep's milk (chèvre and brebis).
Favourite local desserts include Crème Catalane (similar to Crème Brûlée) and Mel i Mato which is soft fresh goat's cheese eaten with honey.For more local specialities visit Roussillon France
Pyrénées Orientales is home to arguably the best Languedoc wines with the Côtes du Roussillon and Côtes du Roussillon Villages appellations contrôlées. These two appellations produce reds, whites and rosés. Maury in the Agly valley is an AOC sweet Vin Doux Naturel, a fortified wine. Made from small red fruits, over time the red colour turns almost mahogany. It is drunk as an aperitif or as a dessert wine. One of the most famous Muscats is the Muscat de Rivesaltes, made from the Muscat Petit Grain grape. This sweet fortified wine is best served very chilled, either on its own as an aperitif, or with dessert or Foie Gras.Attractions
Clearly, the main attraction of the Pyrénées Orientales is the proximity of both the mountains and the Mediterranean, with cosmopolitan Perpignan and picturesque villages for good measure. The département really is very rich in terms of places to visit and things to do.In winter the ski resorts of Font Romeu, Les Angles and Pyrénées 2000, to name but a few, offer good skiing for all levels. Lessons and equipment hire are inexpensive, there are plenty of good bars, restaurants and accommodation, and the resorts are family friendly.
In summer the vast clean, safe, sandy beaches welcome thousands of visitors but never seem crowded; there's plenty of sand for everyone!There are plenty of varied activities from kayaking to museums, with something for everyone. See our other sections of the site for more details of what to do and where to do it!
Aude, le Pays Cathar
Inhabitants: 310 000
Capital town or Préfecture: Carcassonne
Sous-Préfecture: Narbonne
Main towns: Castelnaudary, Lézignan Corbières, Sigean, Port la Nouvelle, Limoux
Coastal resorts: Port Leucate, Leucate Plage, La Franqui, Narbonne Plage, St Pierre la Mer, Gruissan
Airports: Carcassonne
Added attractions: Walled Cité of Carcassonne, Cathar Chateaux, gorges, Canal du Midi, Roman remains, Mediterranean coast
Geography
The Aude is considerably larger than the PO in terms of area yet has a smaller population. The main towns are, for obvious reasons, located close to the main roads and motorways: the A9 motorway which comes down from Montpellier running parallel to the coast, the A61 which branches off and goes up to Toulouse, and the N9 which runs north to south, parallel to the coast and the motorway. The N9, for the most part, follows the route of the Roman Via Domitia, which was the main trade route from Rome to France, Spain and Northern Africa.
To the south of the A61 are the Corbières hills. These limestone hills are of particular geological interest having been formed at the same time as the Pyrénées when France and Spain moved to their current position (over several million years!). There are a number of locations in the Corbières where geologists have been able to calculate the exact timings of the process from the formation of the rock.
Although stunningly beautiful, much of the area of the Corbières is uninhabitable. There used to be shepherds whose sheep grazed the heath or 'garrigue' but these are no longer to be seen. The main agriculture of the Corbières is now wine production as vines are happy to grow in the hard, stony ground.There are many small villages in the Corbières but these tend to be relatively quiet with few amenities, depending on nearby larger towns such as Durban, Tuchan and St Laurent de la Cabrerisse for supermarkets, banks and medical centres.
The other main hill area is north of Narbonne, and is known as La Clape. This is also a major wine-growing area.Carcassonne's walled medieval 'Cité' is world famous; it was the back-drop for the film Robin Hood Prince of Thieves, amongst others. Although it sometimes gets negative press, depending on whom you listen to, it is well worth a visit as not only is it remarkably well-preserved, but it also has some of the nicer restaurants and shops in Carcassonne. The city centre itself has a long way to go to rival the shopping, eating and drinking experience of its fellow Préfecture, Perpignan, but has lots of interesting buildings and pleasant public parks.
Narbonne is a typically southern French town with wide shady avenues and little back streets to explore. The Canal de la Robine runs through the town centre, which is relatively small and compact. One of the main attractions is the market hall, which is open every morning, including weekends, until 1pm. A visit is a must for foodies! Narbonne was one of the principal towns of the Roman Empire and was known as the Crossroads of the South, being ideally located on the trade route between Spain and Italy. There are many sites with Roman remains around Narbonne including a piece of the Roman road, the Via Domitia, in the main square in front of the Mairie. Behind the Mairie is the Cathedral which is unusual in that it has no nave, as there wasn't the money to finish the construction as was planned!Castelnaudary is famous for its cassoulet and other gastronomic delights. The landscape around there is very pretty, bearing a close resemblance to rolling English countryside. In summer the fields of sunflowers are stunning!
Lézignan is a lively traditional market town that serves as a hub for many of the villages of the northern Corbières and southern Minervois.There are many lovely villages along the Canal du Midi that are worth a visit. Homps is particularly well-known and has a pretty leisure port with some good restaurants around it.
Gruissan is a traditional fishing village that has grown in size over the last thirty years to accommodate holiday-makers. The wooden chalets on stilts on the beach were made famous by the film Betty Blue.Port la Nouvelle is not renowned for its beauty but should, nevertheless, get a mention for its industry. It is a major centre for oil refinement, fishing, cement and salt. The quays of the port are not much different from a hundred years ago and the town has retained a very traditional French feel. One of the plus points is the large number of restaurants overlooking the vast sandy beach, and it remains a very popular resort with French holiday makers.
Rennes-le-Chateau, a tiny village perched on top of a rock close to Limoux, is a historical site, which has gained in interest in recent months due to the best-seller The Da Vinci Code. Legend has it that a priest, Abbé Saunière, who arrived in Rennes in 1885 aged 33, spent, over the next thirty years, a vast sum restoring the church. No explanation was found for the source of the funds and so one of theories is that he had discovered hidden treasure left behind by the Knights Templar.Peyriac-de-Mer and Bages are two villages on the Etang de Bages (a marine lake) south of Narbonne which are definitely worth a visit. They are traditional fishing villages which climb from the shores of the lake up to the top of the village, offering stunning views of the coast. There are also some good galleries and restaurants there.
Limoux is a small town in the heart of the Corbières, being one of the larger towns or villages in the area. It has some interesting historic buildings to visit and is generally considered to be one of the more picturesque towns in the Corbières.
Lagrasse is the Aude's only 'Plus Beaux Villages de France' accredited village. Its pretty centre and historic Abbey are worth a visit. The village has been adopted by artists and there are several galleries, as well as craft shops and traditional café bars.
History
The Aude has very strong roots in medieval history. Like The Pyrénées Orientales, its vulnerable position close to the Spanish border and Catalonia has resulted over the ages in many fortified buildings and villages.
The Oppidum of Carsac dates from the 8th Century BC and this Iron Age site is just 2kms from the walled Cité of Carcassonne. In the 1st century BC the Roman town of Carsaco grew up not far from the original Oppidum. The construction on the Cité took place over several centuries. Between the 11th and 12th centuries the first stage of fortification was undertaken by the Viscounts of Trencavel, powerful regional land-owners, to protect their estates against neighbouring Counts. In 1271 the Cité became the property of the King and therefore part of the Royal Domain. Between the 12th and 14th centuries the Bastide St Louis was constructed on the opposite bank of the river. In 1355 the Carcassonais were unable to defend themselves against the Prince of Wales (The Black Prince) who pillaged and burned the fort. It was rebuilt fairly quickly although on a smaller scale, but now included a bridge across the River Aude.
From the 14th to the 18th century the city of Carcassonne prospered and the nobility and merchants gradually moved out of the Cité preferring the other bank to build their mansion houses. The Cité was decommissioned as a military fortress in 1659 when various treaties attributed the Languedoc definitively to France. The Cité gradually fell into ruin.It was in the 1840s that the decision was made by the Monuments Historiques to restore the Cité and the works were started under the supervision of architect Eugène Viollet le Duc. In the 20th century the Cité resembles once more how it looked in its finest hours and it has captured the imagination of film-makers, artists, authors and the thousands of people who visit it each year. It is, without doubt, one of the Aude's greatest assets and there are many annual events which reinforce the Cité's important role in the telling of Carcassonne's history.
The Romans were the founders of the Aude, naming Narbonne as the ‘Sister of Rome’. There are many Roman sites around the department and museums and visitor centres where artefacts from the Roman age including pottery, household items and jewellery are displayed.Another very significant chapter in the Aude's history is the story of the Cathars. Again, the Da Vinci Code has had a role to play in the renewed interest in this religious movement, which had its origins and, tragically, its end in the Aude.
The Cathars were a religious group who appeared in Europe in the eleventh century, their origins something of a mystery. Records from the Roman Church mention them under various names and in various places, occasionally throwing light on basic beliefs. The Roman Church debated with itself whether they were Christian heretics or whether they were not Christians at all. In the Languedoc, famous at the time for its high culture, tolerance and liberalism, Catharism took root and gained more and more adherents during the twelfth century. By the early 13th century it was probably the majority religion in the area, supported by the nobility as well as the common people. This was too much for the Roman Church, some of whose own priests had become Cathars. Worst of all, Cathars of the Languedoc refused to pay their tithes.In 1208 Pope Innocent ordered the Albigensian Crusade, a crusade against the people of the Languedoc. It is believed that 500 000 men, women and children were massacred as Cathar strongholds, including the chateaux of Quéribus and Peyrepertuse were captured. The fall of Catharism and the end of the Crusade is generally considered to have been in 1244 with the fall of Montségur although Cathars were still being burned alive into the 14th century.
It is believed that there were links between the Cathars and the Knights Templar, not least that they were both persecuted by the Roman Catholic Church, hence the interest in the Languedoc as the backdrop to the legends of hidden treasure and the secrets of the Church. The Canal du Midi, decreed part of the national heritage in 1996 was the brainchild of a single man, Pierre Paul Riquet, born in 1609. In 1662 he managed to gain an interview with Colbert, Louis XIV's finance Minister to present his project for a canal across the entire breadth of the Midi which would link the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean. After a successful trial, which he undertook at his own expense, the works began. The Canal was built in stages over many years. Riquet himself died before the Canal was finished but his son took over the project and saw it through to completion. The Canal has become a major attraction in the areas through which it passes with the installation of small pleasure ports and marinas, as well as organised boating and cruising holidays.It is believed that the Romans brought wine to the Aude, and the production of wine through the ages has significantly contributed to the identity of the Aude today. The economy of the Aude has been largely dependent on agriculture until perhaps the last thirty years when tourism has taken over as the biggest sector of economic activity. The reliance on the land has shaped the landscape, the architecture of the villages and the mentality of the Audois. The phylloxera epidemic of 1907 wiped out much of the Aude’s vines and financially ruined a generation. Its centenary will be widely commemorated in 2007, such was the scale of the disaster.
CultureThe cultural traditions of the Aude relate strongly to medieval history. There are often musical and theatrical events staged which recount stories of the Cathars and other groups that have been prominent in the department’s history, or displays of ancient skills such as falconry or jousting. There are many chateaux, abbeys and religious buildings such as the 12th century Abbaye de Fontfroide or the Chateaux of Quéribus and Peyrepertuse, which are the setting for music and theatre, particularly in the summer.
ClimateThe climate in Aude varies between the Mediterranean and inland areas. The Corbières have a significant impact on the weather, particularly in terms of cloud cover. In winter the temperatures inland can be significantly lower than on the coast, particularly at night when there can be frost in autumn and winter. Temperatures on the coast are higher; it can be windier much of the time but with more sunshine. In the area around Carcassonne and Castelnaudary there tends to be more rainfall and a cooler climate. In general though, like the rest of the Languedoc, Aude enjoys mild winters and hot summers. The Tramontane blows from the North West; it is a cold wind in winter and a cooling breeze in the summer, but it always brings blue skies and sunshine, whatever the temperature.
Food & DrinkLike the PO, many of the traditional foods in Aude are influenced by the local environment. Traditionally there is a lot of meat: wild boar, duck, steak and even snails cooked on an open fire over vines are a staple in many of the traditional restaurants.
Perhaps the most famous Aude dish is Cassoulet, which comes from Castelnaudary. This is a hearty dish made with white beans and a variety of meat depending on who you believe for the recipe, but it generally includes sausage, pork and duck. It is really delicious washed down with red wine!Traditionally the Aude was a sheep farming area but this died out in the early 20th century as it became more profitable to grow vines and produce wine. There are still, nevertheless, many producers of goat’s and ewe’s milk cheeses.
The Corbières are home to many bees, and honey made from the pollen of the different plants of the ‘garrigue’ (heath) such as lavender, rosemary and thyme are something of a speciality of the Aude.Fish and seafood are popular, particularly red snapper and sea bass, which are caught in the Mediterranean, and oysters and mussels which are farmed in the marine lakes at Leucate. Eels from the lakes used to be a staple of local agriculture but they and the fishermen who catch them are becoming increasingly rare.
Many AOC wines are produced in the Aude including Fitou, which has two centres of production: the Haut Fitou, inland around Paziols and Tuchan, and Fitou Maritime around the village of the Fitou on the coast. Fitou is one of very few villages to share its name with its appellation. The predominant grape in Fitou and many of the Corbières wines is Carignan which, in itself, is an unremarkable grape, but in recent years, blending with other grapes and oak aging has produced some remarkable wines.Attractions
Like the PO, one of the attractions of the Aude is the proximity of both the mountains and the Mediterranean. Although the main cities and town of the Aude do not, for the moment, rival Perpignan, it is not far to Montpellier, a thriving cosmopolitan city.The beaches of the Pays Cathar are the envy of many other coastal parts of France. They are clean, safe and sandy, stretching for miles and miles along the Aude coast. And of course, where there’s water there are water sports: windsurfing, (Leucate is home to the Mondial du Vent, an annual international windsurfing championship), sailing, kite surfing, sand yachting and just plain old swimming! Alternative water sports are to be found in the gorges near Quillan: white water rafting, kayaking and canyoning.
The Corbières hills are ideal for climbing and walking, and the scenery can be quite breathtaking.For culture vultures, the attractions of the Aude are many: chateaux, roman remains, abbeys and history-a-plenty.
Through the ages, the Aude has traditionally been one of the poorer, if not the poorest department in France, with a large land mass, small population, and reliance on farming on a scale little above subsistence. Nowadays, it is a popular year-round destination for tourists. With the increase in tourism in the Aude comes significant investment and over the next ten to twenty years the department is likely to lose some its ‘poor relation’ status and gain in popularity and maybe even sophistication. The Aude is a department of contrasts from the Mediterranean sea to the craggy hills of the Corbières and rolling green hills of the Lauragais, and whatever your tastes, it is impossible not to appreciate its beauty.Gard
Inhabitants: 700 000
Capital town or Préfecture: Nîmes
Sous-Préfectures: Alès, Le Vigan
Main towns: Nîmes, Le Vigan, Alès, Anduze, Uzès, Beaucaire, Bagnols-sur-Cèze, Remoulins, Aigues-Mortes
Coastal resorts: Le Grau du Roi, Port Camargue
Airports: Nîmes-Garons
Added attractions: The Cévennes, the small ski resort of Mont Aigoual (1567m), the Camargue, the Pont du Gard, the Roman Amphitheatre in Nîmes, equi-distant from Spain and Italy, easy access to Provence and the Côte d'Azur, as well as Montpellier
Geography
Named after the River Gardon, which flows through much of the department, the Gard is a strangely shaped territory which marks the eastern-most limit of the Languedoc Roussillon. Historically the Gard has always been considered closer to Provence; indeed, it is featured in the Michelin Provence Green Guide and not in the Languedoc Roussillon guide, although technically it is very definitely a department in the Languedoc Roussillon. This is perhaps due to the proximity of the Gard and Nîmes to key Provençal towns such as Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Arles and Salon-de-Provence. It is also relatively close to the Côte d'Azur (two and a half hours' drive from Nîmes to Cannes) and Marseille (one hour's drive).
The coastline of the Gard is mostly the grassy marshland of the Camargue, famous for salt, asparagus, rice, white ponies and bulls. There are two coastal resorts: Le Grau du Roi and Port Camargue, both of which are typical of the region, and La Grande Motte is also within reasy reach.
To the North the Gard extends into the Cévennes, a very green and mountainous area, the highest peaks of which are Mont Lozère (1699m) and Mont Aigoual (1567m). The climate of the Cévennes is classed as Mediterranean with higher rainfall in the winter and little in the summer. Mostly benefiting from 'Green Tourism' (walking, mountain biking etc.) the area is also famous for cheeses, chestnuts and formerly, silk. Mont Aigoual is skiable in winter although is not a major resort as it is not high enough to have sufficient guaranteed snowfall.
Nîmes is a beautiful city with an inescapable Roman history. The city centre is relatively compact and many significant Roman remains are contained within the 'Ecusson', the now-pedestrianised historic centre of the city. Fantastic for shopping, eating and drinking, Nîmes, a university city, has many lively and smart bars, cafés and restaurants. The Arènes is the best preserved Roman amphitheatre in Europe. Once the scene of gladiatorial action, it is still used today for concerts and, of course, bull-fighting. The Maison Carrée is the only fully preserved Roman Temple in the world. Once part of a large Roman villa, it is now used for exhibitions.
St Hippolyte du Fort is a market town at the foot of the Cévennes. Now famous for its many sundials, it was once a major silk farming town and many of the properties have the top floor 'magnanerie', which was used for breeding silk worms.
Alès is one of the Sous-Préfectures of the Gard and is a large town at the foot of the Cévennes. Once a major mining area, the landscape has the hilly profile typical of mining towns.
Anduze is a pretty market town set against the backdrop of the Cévennes. One of the more touristy towns in the Gard, it attracts a large number of visitors in the summer.
Uzès is one of the most typically Provençal towns in the Gard. With its white stone, cobbled streets, leafy squares and hilly surrounding landscape it is a popular place to visit year-round. There are lots of interesting shops selling, in particular, antiques, lavender products, olives and olive oil and Provençal textiles. Undeniably touristy, it is nonetheless a lovely place for a stroll and a coffee or lunch on a nice day.
Le Vigan is the other Sous-Préfecture of the Gard. Its location, to the far North-West of the department makes it seem more logically placed in the Hérault. It is possibly closer to Montpellier than to Nîmes but is accessible from both. A medium-sized market town, it is popular with visitors in the summer.
Aigues Mortes is a picturesque walled medieval town in the Petite Camargue. Its origins date back to the 10th century, and it was rebuilt in the 13th century by Louis XIV as the Mediterranean's only port. The town is actually several miles inland and the port, as such, would have been in nearby lagoons and estuaries, linked to Aigues-Mortes. Its name mean 'dead waters' presumably because of the high salt content of the water in the lagoons.
Beaucaire is a pretty port town on the Rhône and is just on the border of the Gard and the Bouches du Rhône. Once a major trade route, the boats of Beaucaire now constitute a large part of the region's tourism.
History
The names Nîmes derives from the Roman and Celtic name Nemausus. Nemausus is often said to have been the Celtic patron god of Nîmes but there are other theories: perhaps Nemausus was the sacred wood in which the Celtic tribe of the Volcae Arecomici (who of their own accord surrendered to the Romans in 121 BC) held their assemblies. Or it was perhaps the local Celtic spirit guardian of the spring that originally provided all water for the settlement, as many modern sources suggest. Or perhaps Stephanus of Byzantium was correct in stating in his geographical dictionary that Nemausos, the city of Gaul, took its name from the Heracleid (or son of Heracles) Nemausios.
An important healing spring sanctuary existed in the town; it was established in some form at least as early as the early Iron Age but was expanded after the Romans colonised the region in the late 2nd Century BC. Another set of local spirits worshipped at the Nemausus spring were the Nemausicae or Matre Nemausicae, who were fertility and healing goddesses.
Although the best known monuments are easily identified as dating from Roman times, Nimes is a truly ancient settlement.
The site known as Serre Paradis belongs to the New Stone Age (Neolithic period) and evidence has been found here of the presence of semi-nomadic cultivators in the period 4000 to 3500 BC on the site of the future city of Nîmes.
The population of the site increased during the thousand-year period of the Bronze Age and traces have been found of a village of huts. The menhir of Courbessac (or La Poudriere) stands in a field, near the airfield. This limestone monolith of over 2 metres in height dates to about 2500 BC, and must be considered Nîmes' oldest monument.
The Warrior of Grezan is considered to be the most ancient indigenous sculpture in southern Gaule and Mont Cavalier was the site of the early oppidum, the name given to a large pre-Roman settelement or town. In the third to second century BC a surrounding wall was built, closed at the summit by a dry-stone tower, which was later incorporated into the masonry of The Tour Magne. The Wars of Gaule and the fall of Marseille in 49 BC allowed Nîmes to regain its autonomy under Rome.
It was about 50 BC that Nîmes became a Roman colony, as witness the earliest coins which bear the abbreviation COL NEM: 'Colony of Nemausus'. Some years later a sanctuary and other constructions connected with the spring were grew up on the site. Nîmes was already under Roman influence, though it was Augustus who made the city the capital of Narbonne province, and gave it all its glory.
Augustus gave the town a ring of ramparts six kilometres long, reinforced by fourteen towers, with gates of which two remain today, the Porte Auguste and the Porte de France. The city had an estimated population of 60,000. He had the Forum built and perhaps also the aqueduct. Nothing remains of certain monuments; the only evidence of their existence being inscriptions or architectural fragments found in the course of excavations. It is known that the town had a civil basilica, a curia, a gymnasium and perhaps a circus. The amphitheatre dates from the end of the 2nd century AD. The family of Roman Emperor Antoninus Pius came from Nemausus.
This prosperity was to stay with the town until the end of the 3rd century AD. Already there was risk of invasion and the decadence of Rome meant that Nemausus was a target for invasion by 'Barbarians': Visigoths, Burgunds and Ostrogoths came one after another to pillage the riches of the Empire.
Nîmes was frequently invaded and occupied by different powers over many centuries with brief periods of peace and propsperity. The occupation by the Moors from Spain from 710 to 754 AD was notably beneficial for the region. The Christian Church, already established in Gaule since the first century AD, appeared be the last refuge open to civilization. Remarkably organized and directed by men of great worth, brought a certain amount of stability to the city.
The town, ruined by so many troubles and invasions was now only a shadow of the opulent Gallo-Roman city. The local powers installed themselves in the amphitheatre. Carolingian rule brought relative peace with it, but feudal times in the 12th century brought local troubles which lasted until the days of St. Louis. Despite incessant feudal squabbling, Nîmes saw a certain progress both in commerce and industry as well as in stockbreeding and associated activities. After the last effort by Raymond VII of Toulouse, St. Louis managed to base Royal power in the region which became Languedoc. Nîmes thus entered finally into the hands of the King of France.
During the 14th and 15th centuries the Rhone Valley underwent an uninterrupted series of invasions which ruined the economy and brought about famine. Customs were forgotten, there were religious troubles and epidemics, all of which affected the city. Nîmes, which was one of the Protestant strongholds, felt the full force of repression, which continued until the middle of the 17th century, adding to the misery of periodic outbreaks of plague.
In the middle of the 17th century Nîmes experienced a period of prosperity. Population growth caused the town to expand, and slum housing to be replaced. The reconstruction of Notre-Dame-Saint-Castor, the Bishop's palace and numerous mansions also dates back to this period. This 'renaissance' strengthened the manufacturing and industrial capacity of the city, the population rising from 21 000 to 50 000 inhabitants. Also in this period the Jardins de la Fontaine gardens were laid out and the areas surrounding the Maison Carrée and the Amphitheatre were cleared.
During Medieval times the Gardois towns of Alais (now Alès) and Uzès were frequently captured and claimed by different land owners and re-attributed to different kingdoms.
As in many other parts of the Languedoc, religious wars play a large part in the Gard's history with conflict between the ever-growing Protestant population and the Catholics. The protestants had a particularly strong hold in the Cévennes, in the North of the Gard.
The Revolutionary period awoke slumbering demons of political and religious antagonism. The White Terror added to natural calamities and economic recession, produced murder, pillage and arson until 1815. Order was however restored in the course of the 19th century, and Nîmes became the metropolis of Bas-Languedoc, diversifying its industry towards new kinds of activity. At the same time the surrounding countryside adapted to market needs and shared in the general increase of wealth.
During the Renaissance period, the textile industry of the Cévennes, in particular, flourished and was largely reponsible for the new wealth with the production of denim! This hard-wearing fabric was used to make trousers for the shepherd in the Cévennes and was then adopted by Genoese sailors. It's biggest break when the first jeans were made in Nîmes for Levis for the cowboys of the new colonies in America. The term 'denim' means literally 'from Nîmes'.
The textile industry came under threat in the second half of the 19th Century with increasing competition from Lyon and this point, much of the Gard wealth was re-invested in wine, the trading of which was facilitated by new rail networks, already well developed in the Gard at the time. The railways also benefited the Cevennes coal industry, with transportation of the coal to the Rhone and Marseille.
Over the past 20 years the department has undergone major transformation with investment in town planning, industry, sport, art and culture. In the 21st Century, the investment in Nîmes continues with ambitous projects for the new Millienium: the creation of a new Olympic-size swimming pool complex, the creation of a fitting esplanade around the amphitheatre and the cleaning of the Maison Carrée, to name but a few.
Culture
Nîmes' long history and geographic position bring to bear a very varied range of cultural traditions with influences from the Romans, the Spanish, the Camargue, the Cévennes, Provence and Languedoc. In many traditions the Gard is closer to Provence than the rest of the Languedoc.
One of the strongest and best-known traditions of this part of France is the 'Tradition Taurine': namely bull-fighting (corrida), imported from Spain in the 19th Century, and bull running, whereby the 'raseteurs' jump into the ring and try to snatch brightly coloured ribbons from the bull's horns. In these events the bull is not harmed.The corrida at the Arènes de Nîmes attract some of the best young bull-fighting talent in the world.
There are 2 main annual 'Feria' (festivals) in Nîmes, the Feria de Pentecôte at the end of May and the Feria des Vendanges in September. The biggest is the Pentecôte feria when the population of Nîmes swells from the usual 130 000 to a staggering million plus! The feria involve bull-fighting and lots of music, eating, drinking and serious partying over a two or three day period.
Although only part of the Camargue is actually in the Gard, its traditions influence the cultural traditions of other parts of the Gard. The herds of white horses and bulls of the Camargue (called 'manades' for both animal), whose histories and existence are intertwined, play a major role in any fête, with demonstrations of horse-back herding by traditionally-dressed 'gardians', effectively Camarguais cowboys.
Climate
The climate in the Gard is perhaps closer to that of Provence than the rest of the Languedoc. Like Provence, it suffers the infamous Mistral rather than the Tramontane. Like other departments in the Languedoc, the climate of the Gard varies enormously between the Mediterranean and the inland areas.
Overall the climate is typically Mediterranean with mild winters and hot, dry summers. There is a lot of sunshine, and rainfall slightly below the national average. In recent years the deaprtment has suffered with serious flooding and local government is investing heavily to reduce flood risks. The situation of Nîmes, inland and enclosed by a number of hills and heathland, makes it prone to very hot weather in summer, whilst the Cévennes have a cooler climate and even snow in winter.
Food & Drink
The specialities of the Gard are influenced by its proximity to the sea and the Cévennes, and its abundance of rich farming land. The Camargue is well-known for its produce: salt, rice, asparagus and beef.
La brandade de Nîmes is a typically Nîmois dish which has been documented since 1786 and was made famous in 1830 by the renowned Chef Durand. Made from de-salted salt cod, olive oil and milk, it is served warm, sometimes in puff pastry.
The Gard, like Provence, is a large producer of olives and olive oil. The speciality is the green 'picholine' olive. Picked in December and January it has a fruity taste.
Where there are olives, there is tapenade, a paste made from black or green olives, anchovies and herbs, which is spread on fresh or toasted bread.
Le croquant Villaret is a hard biscuit made from flour, sugar, water and extracts of lemon, orange flower and almond. Its recipe has been a secret of the Villaret family since 1775!
The excellent farming land of the Gard makes it a large producer of fruit (predominantly orchard and soft fruits), salads and vegetables. The strawberries grown in the area, of the 'gariguette' variety, are the first to be available on the market, as early as 15th March. They are small, exceptionally sweet and usually more expensive than those grown in Spain.
The two main appellations of Gard wines are the Costières de Nîmes and the Coteaux du Languedoc. There are 12 000 hectares of Costières de Nîmes vines to the south of the city. The Coteaux du Languedoc vineyards are to the west. Red, white and rosé, these two appellations have improved consistently over the last 20 years and some are now considered to be among the best wines in France.
Attractions
As with many areas of the Languedoc one of the main attractions of Gard is the proximity of both the mountains and the Mediterranean, with Nîmes and some pretty towns in between. The many attributes of the department make it a popular place to live and visit.
Nîmes has an extremely active council and cultural/ tourist board and there are events year round. Historical monuments such as the Arènes and the Jardins de la Fontaine are justifiably well-used to stage major festivals and themed events, celebrating everything from olives to cartoons.
There are the natural attractions of the Petite Camargue, the Mediterranean coast, the wild heathlands and the Parc Naturel of the Cévennes which offer diverse visitor experiences through their heritage and climate.
From bulls to silk worms the Gard has much to offer. See our other sections of the site for more details of what to do and where to do it!